St. Augustine’s African Orthodox Church – Cambridge’s Newest Landmark

View of St. Augustine’s African Orthodox Church, 1964.

On February 22, the Cambridge City Council unanimously voted to designate St. Augustine’s African Orthodox Church a Cambridge Landmark. This designation recognizes only a select number of individual properties that are important to the City as a whole, protecting them so that their unique qualities are maintained for the benefit of all the residents of Cambridge.

Located at 137 Allston Street in Cambridgeport, St. Augustine’s African Orthodox Church is owned by the Trustees of The St. Augustine’s Mission. The church is also the home of Black History in Action for Cambridgeport (BHAC), a non-profit organization dedicated to promoting programs focused on sharing Black culture, arts, history, and education with  the general public. BHAC’s mission is to sustain and revitalize St. Augustine’s as a neighborhood center for assembly, empowerment, and outreach.

View of St. Augustine’s African Orthodox Church with recently completed new roof.

The property was originally part of the estate of Mrs. Washington Allston [Martha Remington Dana Allston] as drawn on a survey by William A. Mason and W. S. Barbour dated May 1, 1862 and filed in the Middlesex County (South District) Registry of Deeds, Plan Book 33, Plan 5. The rector of St. Peter’s Episcopal Church in Central Square, Rev. Edward M. Gushee, acquired the property in 1886 to construct a mission of St. Peter’s. Rev. Gushee died in 1917 and bequeathed the property to his son Richard, an Episcopal minister in California. A new priest was appointed by the Diocese of Massachusetts, but the congregation dwindled over the next few years and could not sustain the church financially even though Rev. Richard Gushee continued to own the property. In 1927 Rev. Gushee sold the property to Central Square furniture dealer Morris Bobrick, who may have intended to use the property for storage but who defaulted on his mortgage. The property was bought at auction by Nettie E. Fernandez who in turn sold it to individuals associated with the African Orthodox denomination in 1931. The St. Augustine’s property continues to be owned by the trustees of The St. Augustine’s Mission.

Allston Street was named for Washington Allston (1779-1843), an artist who pioneered America’s Romantic movement of landscape painting. He married Martha Remington Dana, the daughter of Chief Justice Francis Dana, who owned most of the property in this area. Allston Street is a through street parallel to Putnam Avenue and intersecting with the main thoroughfares in the neighborhood, including Magazine, Pearl, and Brookline streets. The neighborhood is characterized by dominant north-south streets, uniform intervals between the cross streets, and sustained setbacks. Only on four streets – Green, Franklin, Allston, and Putnam – can one traverse the entire area in an east-west direction. Early building locations appear to have been determined by land elevation or proximity to Central Square. In 1830 there were only three cross streets; in 1854 there were six; and by 1873 the current street layout was virtually complete. South of Allston Street is a slightly elevated and once heavily wooded area known in the 19th century as Pine Grove. In 1838 Edmund Trowbridge Hastings (1789-1861) and other Dana heirs laid out the Pine Grove subdivision with 131 house lots on Allston, Chestnut, Henry, Waverly, Sidney, Brookline and Pearl Streets. The original plan included a residential square around Fort Washington and another on Brookline Street that became today’s Hasting’s Square. Although some lots were sold, the area was too isolated to attract development even after the Cottage Farm (B.U.) Bridge was completed in 1851. Martha Allston’s land on the north side of Allston Street (including the site of St. Augustine’s Church) was subdivided in 1862 but remained substantially undeveloped until the 1880s, when the neighborhood began to fill up with one- and two-family houses. Construction of the Morse School in 1890 spurred development, and by 1910 the neighborhood was complete. It remains essentially unchanged today, although the school was demolished in 1957 and the site became a park.

From the founding of Cambridge in 1630 to the construction of the West Boston (now Longfellow) Bridge in 1793, only three families lived east of Quincy Street on “the Neck,” a marshy, wooded peninsula formed by the Charles and Millers rivers. The opening of the bridge spurred development. By this time two Cambridge men owned most of the land in Cambridgeport: William Jarvis controlled properties north of Massachusetts Avenue and Justice Francis Dana to the south. (Much of the rest – and all of East Cambridge – fell to Andrew Craigie.)

Jarvis was the U.S. Inspector of Revenue. Dana, who descended from an old Cambridge family and resided on a large estate on Dana Hill, served as Chief Justice of the Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court from 1791 to 1806. The two men worked with the Proprietors of the West Boston Bridge to lay out Massachusetts Avenue and Main Street but did not otherwise develop a master plan for the area. Justice Dana developed his holdings slowly and carefully. In 1798 Jarvis was convicted of misappropriation of customs duties; the federal government seized his properties and sold them off to multiple owners.

Justice Dana died in 1811, and his heirs continued to develop Cambridgeport in the same careful pattern. What is now Allston Street was a part of Justice Dana’s estate left to his daughter, Martha Remington Dana Allston (Mrs. Washington Allston).

St. Augustine’s African Orthodox Church was built in 1886-87 as St. Philip’s, a mission of St. Peter’s Episcopal Church in Central Square. The remote site was chosen to attract parishioners from the surrounding neighborhood who found it difficult to get to church in Central Square. It was the first house of worship to open in the former Pine Grove neighborhood and attracted so many worshipers that it needed to be enlarged two years later.

St. Philip’s was designed by the New Bedford architect Robert Slack, who oversaw both the original construction and the 1888 expansion and worked with the local builders Kelley & McKinnon. Talented and prolific, Slack did not specialize in one style; he designed private homes, churches, and institutions, including a new wing at Harvard’s Peabody Museum.

The church is reminiscent of an English village chapel but is distinctly American in its wood construction and simple expression. The exterior was shingled and stained dark red with trimmings of dark blue. The 50-foot-tall tower was surmounted by a gilded cross and enclosed a bell made at the Meneely foundry in Troy, New York. The main entrance was through a foyer on the right front. The interior featured an open-timbered auditorium with rows of cane chairs with hassocks for the congregation, double-hung windows with colored lights, and five decorative chancel windows high above the altar. The 1888 expansion involved cutting off the chancel end and moving it back 31 feet and building a section between with a transept on the south side, making the inserted section 31 feet by 34 feet. This increased the overall length from 60 to 90 feet and doubled the seating capacity to about 400. The basement was finished for use as Sunday School and guild rooms.

Image of church after expansion. Note the original side entrance. Cambridge Chronicle, Sept. 15, 1888.

St. Philip’s was a personal project of Rev. Edward M. Gushee, who served at St. Peter’s Episcopal in Central Square until Easter 1888, when he became rector of St. Philip’s. A wealthy, generous man, Rev. Gushee owned the building, presided at services, and was the parish’s sole financial benefactor. Gushee died in 1917, leaving a small allowance to the parish but bequeathing the building to his son Richard, an Episcopal minister in California who apparently had no wish to return to Cambridge. The diocese supplied the parish with a priest for a few years, but the congregation dwindled and could no longer support either a rector or the building. In 1927 Richard put the building up for sale, advertising it as suitable for “storage, church or remodeled for dwelling” (Cambridge Chronicle, August 26, 1927).

In August 1928 Richard Gushee sold the property to Morris Bobrick, a furniture dealer in Central Square who may have used it for storage. Two years later Bobrick sold it to the trustees of a new church, identified in the newspapers as the African Orthodox Society. In 1932 the Cambridge assessors gave the trustees as George Alexander McGuire, Rev. Gladstone St. Clair Nurse, and Elvira Headley.

Historic plaque located on the site.

Bishop George A. McGuire (1866-1934) established the African Orthodox Church in 1921. McGuire was born, raised, and educated on Antigua; he came to the U.S. in 1894 and two years later was ordained an Episcopal priest. He served in numerous parishes and was praised for both his preaching and his organizational skills. In 1910 he attended Boston University’s medical school, but in 1913 he went back to Antigua to nurse his mother.

In 1918 McGuire returned to the U.S. and began to move in a new direction. He campaigned for equal rights for Black Americans and severed his ties with the Episcopal Church to protest its systemic racism and discrimination against Black clergy. McGuire became an associate of Marcus Garvey and worked with Garvey’s Universal Negro Improvement Association (UNIA); Garvey in turn endorsed McGuire’s idea that true equality and spiritual freedom could only be achieved by an all-Black religious denomination – a church attended by people of color and administered by Black clergy. The bishop broke with Garvey in 1924, probably over the latter’s increasingly radical ideas on racial nationalism.

In the fall of 1921, St. Luke’s African Orthodox Church opened at 252 Green Street (now the site of the Green Street Garage). In 1931 the denomination took possession of the dilapidated St. Philip’s and renamed it St. Augustine’s African Orthodox Pro-Cathedral, with Bishop McGuire at its head. (A pro-cathedral is a church named by a bishop to serve as his seat but which remains under the governance of the vestry.) When Bishop McGuire died in 1934 the African Orthodox Church could claim approximately 30,000 members in thirty congregations in the United States, the West Indies, South America, and Africa.

General Sources

Cambridge Chronicle, June 6, 1887; September15, 1888; January 17, 1930.

Cambridge Sentinel, January 13, 1940.

Cambridge Tribune, June 18, 1887; January 28, 1888.

Survey of Architectural History in Cambridge, Cambridgeport. Cambridge Historical Commission, 1971.

Harvard Square Library, https://www.harvardsquarelibrary.org/cambridge-harvard/washington-allston/

Black History in Action For Cambridgeport, https://www.bhacambridge.org/history

Wikipedia entries for Rev. George A. Maguire and the African Orthodox Church

Archives

Cambridge Historical Commission. Survey file on 137 Allston Street

Cambridge Historical Commission. Biographical files on Rev. Richard Gushee Sr. and Rev. George A. Maguire

Middlesex County Registry of Deeds

Maps and Atlases

Bromley, George W. and Walter S. Atlas of the City of Cambridge, Massachusetts. Philadelphia, 1894, 1903, 1916, 1930.

City of Cambridge GIS

Torn Down Tuesday: 91 Washington Ave

Usually, once a building is demolished, it is gone forever. In today’s Torn Down Tuesday feature, the house that burned was constructed alongside a twin neighbor that still stands, allowing us to enjoy its ornate architecture today. These houses are described in Susan E. Maycock’s and Charles M. Sullivan’s book, Building Old Cambridge.


“The 1870s produced the most flamboyant Mansards in Old Cambridge, with great flexibility of plan and silhouette, a profusion of architectural ornament, and bay windows soaring into Mansard-roofed towers. Much of the greater freedom in architectural detail may be attributed to the widespread use of wood-working machinery. High wages for craftsmen after the Civil War impelled builders to use cheaper machine-made instead of hand-carved architectural decoration in all but the most opulent commissions.”

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91 Washington Avenue, ca. late nineteenth century (demolished in 1940)

“Forms were often reduced to geometric shapes that machines could reproduce. Many of the new decorative elements were turned on a lathe or cut with a jigsaw and then nailed together, because ornamentation composed of separate parts could be more elaborate than if carved from a single piece of wood. Machines also facilitated popular details, such as chamfered edges and incised linear designs on exterior ornament and interior marble mantels.”

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81 Washington Avenue, 1960s

“On one of the highest spots in the city, a profusion of detail enhanced opulent twin mansions built side by side in 1871 for Henry J. Melendy and D. Gilbert Dexter, partners in a boot and shoe business in Boston. Dexter’s house burned in 1939, but Melendy’s at 81 Washington Avenue remains in remarkably original condition.”

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81 Washington Aveneue, 1966-67

“The projecting entrance pavilion displayed a great freedom of design in the elaborate jigsawn and routed scrollwork, bargeboard, brackets, pilasters, and recessed dormers. A dramatic concave-roof cupola crowned the patterned slate roof and offered a spectacular view of Boston. The attention to detail continued on the interior with high ceilings, ornate woodwork, and patterned wood floors.”

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81 Washington Avenue, 2009

For more information about the development of Old Cambridge, contact us at histcomm (@) cambridgema.gov or consult Building Old Cambridge by Susan E. Maycock and Charles M. Sullivan.

Torn Down Tuesday: The Rand Estate

On June 9, 1855, the Cambridge Chronicle declared that “No part of our city is improving more rapidly at the present time than that part known as North Cambridge.” Among the citizens listed as building new structures was carriage-builder Benjamin Rand, then in the process of erecting a house on Elm Street along the Somerville border.

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Rear view of Rand’s house and estate

Early deeds show that the land was owned by David Goddard, a wheelwright, and that there was a blacksmith shop on the North Avenue (later Massachusetts Avenue) end as early as 1802. In 1810, Goddard sold a shallow lot along North Ave to Joseph Kent, a blacksmith living in Charlestown, who had earlier purchased the shop but not the land. In 1812, Kent, now listed as a blacksmith in Cambridge, sold the same lot and blacksmith shop to Benjamin Rand, chaisemaker in Cambridge. In 1821, Stephen, Benjamin, David, and Sarah Goddard sold the land behind the blacksmith shop to Benjamin Rand, stretching his land to Elm Street.

 

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Detail of 1854 Walling map. Rand’s house sits between Asa Cutter and Dr. Morse.

The two western portions of the blacksmith shop make up the only building that show on the 1854 Walling Map of Cambridge. In 1946, it was described as “an interesting two and a half story hip roof house…facing Massachusetts Avenue.”

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1901-1911 Mass ave

In contrast to the house above, the new construction on Elm St was characteristic of the Italiante style. Here the center hall plan is emphasized by an entrance pavilion with a heavy cross gable. The most prominent feature of the composition is the massive projection of the cornice, which casts strong shadows and forms a determined break between the rook and walls. The wide front door is framed by paneled pilasters and shielded by a substantial hood carried on brackets.

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112 Elm St ca. 1870s

The greater plasticity of massing in this house is further emphasized by bay windows on each end facade. The upright composition, set on a granite foundation and low terrace uncompromised by foundation shrubbery and set off by a trim cast iron fence, is a textbook example of American suburban dwelling at mid-century.

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Wisteria on the Gazebo at the Henry Harry Seaton Rand Estate (2 June 1892), by Henry Lathrop Rand. Southwest Harbor Public Library.

Benjamin Rand died in 1859, and his will probated in 1860 left his household furnishings to his wife Rebecca, all the lot with the buildings to his son Henry C. Rand, who had been born in the house, and the remainder of his property in trust for the benefit of his wife and grandson, George R. Wade. Henry was a leather dealer in Boston with a storefront at 45 Merchants Row in Boston. Cambridge-based business Curtis Davis & Co soap-makers occupied a neighboring storefront at 21 Merchants Row.

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Henry C. Rand & Co. – 45 Merchants Row, Boston (31 March 1902), by Henry Lathrop Rand. Southwest Harbor Public Library.

Henry’s son, Harry Seaton Rand worked as a clerk at his father’s business. Following Henry C.’s death on 29 March 1910, the property was left to Harry Seaton.

Henry Harry Seaton Rand
Henry Harry Seaton Rand in Gloucester (30 May 1892), by Henry Lathrop Rand. Southwest Harbor Public Library.

Henry Seaton married Mabel Malwhinney in 1909 and both lived the rest of their lives on the expansive estate. Harry died in August 1946, and Mabel passed away a few years later in August 1950. The couple had no children, and sought to leave the estate, its trappings, and their personal property to a party that would care for the land in perpetuity, possibly as a museum or park.

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Detail of the Rand property on the 1916 Cambridge Bromley Map

The Rand estate was known and recognized by Cantabrigians for its expansive grounds, lush gardens, and pristine landscaping. Detailing the beauty of the grounds, the 2 August 1935 issue of the Cambridge Chronicle wrote:

“…there is much to be told about the architectural landscape features of the interior which is laid out with pleasant walks, well-kept lawns, expansive flower gardens, arbors, trellises and shrubbery, while numberless stately trees of various kinds provide caverns of cool shade in hot weather. A large greenhouse supplies a wealth of flowers and plants used for decoration. A restful calm creeps over one who is privileged to inspect these premises, which also furnish a splendid sanctuary for birds. The estate is enclosed in a high wooden, slat, fence, bordered inside by a thick foliage which obscures the view of passersby except here and there a peep hole enables one to catch some of the hidden beauties of the place.”

Elm St 112 Rand Estate c 1885
112 Elm St ca. 1885

Both the City of Cambridge and the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities (SPNEA), now known as Historic New England, were offered the real estate as a gift, though neither party possessed the resources to maintain the aging property, and it was passed on to the general estate. In 1952, the property was cleared to make way for what is now the Porter Square Shopping Center, which opened to customers in 1957.

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Porter Sq Shopping Center, 1960

For more information on the Rand Estate, please contact us at histcomm @ cambridgema[.]gov. For more information on the Porter Square Shopping Center, please see our Instagram post: https://www.instagram.com/p/B1ET72pguUu/


Sources:
The Cambridge Chronicle
Cambridge Historical Commission architecture survey files
Survey of Architectural History in Cambridge Vol. 5: Northwest Cambridge
 (1977)

Historic Building Feature Friday: Austin Hall, Harvard Law School

Designed by Henry Hobson Richardson and completed in 1884, Austin Hall at Harvard University stands out as one of the best examples of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture in the world.

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Austin Hall in 2012 showing circular stair and arched entry. Courtesy of Harvard University Fine Arts Collection.

Austin Hall was constructed thanks to Edward Austin who was born to a commercial family. He entered the shipping business at a young age and later turned to management of railroads, ending up as the Director of the Boston & Worcester (later Boston & Albany) railroad. In 1880, without ever attending Harvard University, he inquired then Harvard President Eliot on how he could provide for the greatest immediate need for the university while also erecting a memorial to his deceased brother Samuel. Eliot replied that the Law School required expanded facilities. Austin then replied to Eliot that he detested lawyers, but later offered funding for the structure.

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Edward Austin circa. 1860.

In 1882, after already hiring H.H. Richardson, settling on a location for the building, and approving a design, Austin offered Harvard $135,000 to construct his building, with the stipulation that no other structure stand within 60 feet of this new Law School building. The former Harvard Branch Railroad Station and the ca. 1717 Moses Richardson house were razed immediately. The building was constructed with the Hastings-Holmes house  nearby, until Austin insisted that the house be sacrificed and offered Harvard an additional $3,000 to have it removed. Holmes Place, which Austin Hall fronted, was eliminated.

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Austin Hall (left) shortly after completion with Hastings-Holmes house (right) in front before demolition.

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Austin Hall in early 1900s. Courtesy of Library of Congress.

The elaborate structure known as Austin Hall is planned in a T-shape with the two-story reading room serving as the shaft of the T. The main façade is dominated by a triple-arched entry porch and a circular stair tower. The checkerboard and floral patterns in the stone work are comprised of light and dark sandstone, and were not complete until after the formal opening of the new building.

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Plan for Austin Hall. Courtesy of Harvard Law School Library.

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Exterior sandstone detail with floral pattern. Courtesy of Harvard University Fine Arts Collection.

The interior is just as stunning as the exterior with continuation of arches and supports in the hallways to the delicate layering of brick and sandstone. The reading room (since remodeled into the Ames Courtroom in 1954), features exposed tie beams carved with the heads of dragons and boars as well as a massive fireplace with ornate detailing to match the rest of the building.

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Interior detailing. Courtesy of Harvard University Fine Arts Collection.

For more information on this building, feel free to schedule a research appointment with us at histcomm@cambridgema.gov.